Sunday, January 8, 2012

Club Meeting 2: The Reconvening! (1/8/12)

01/08/2012 -- Cheese project
Attending: Krk and Kasia...and still Lucy, despite her lack of contribution to Clabber Club.

20:24 Meeting delayed due to chillin’ and imbibing. And a bike rack. And South Park.

And Val. Always Val. (Editor's note: Also Lana. She is a rawking way to spend time, too!)

Krk makes derogatory comments about Bulgarians. One in particular. He tells ya.

As per decision from reconvened meeting the minutes of the 01/01/2012 meeting were read in a variety of [mostly dramatic] fashions by one Tom Dewey. Not Don’ty. Some fashions were more Cleeseian (Cleesian? Cleesical? Cleeusical? Cheesy?) [Krk shares an interesting factoid that may or may not be true about John Cleese.] than others. One was in his original accent even. In all, a rollicking good time.

So why are we here?



Ah yes. Cheese.

Not Cleese; that’s another club. And blog. Probably.

In the past week, Kasia made gift cheeses for Cristina (per last meeting), but has failed to actualy GIFT them, not having SEEN Cristina in that time. They are tasty though. Not having posted to the Clabber Club blog about said cheesemaking, Kasia doesn’t recall what went into the cheeses.

To the phone for photos!

All members have photos as far back as the clabbering of the cheeses, but not the actual milk. This will be researched and a complete blog posted this evening. The milk was clabbered with buttermilk, heated to 125 degrees, a tsp of lemon juice was added to ensure thorough curdling, and then divided in half and hung in hop sacks. Half was treated with salt, and the other half with blueberry juice and cayenne. The result was a combination of twarog and devonshire clotted cream. And it was delicious. And it’s still in the fridge.

Kasia also made a raw milk cheese. The milk clabbered and then was heated and treated with rennet at 96 degrees. The curd was then cooked at 108-ish. Ish. Indeed. After salting and pressing, the cheese was broken into curds and shaken in a container with salt.

Then Krk came home and we ate all of it. In like 10 minutes. Jesus. We have a problem.

Krk has physically left the meeting now to heat raw milk from Dungeness and Organic Valley lowfat cultured buttermilk that has been clabbering for 36 hours. He hopes -- aloud -- that it doesn’t make him sick. From the sound of gloppy, chunky pouring into the pot, it sounds like the milk has thoroughly clabbered, and suspicions rise among remaining club members that the cheese will indeed make Krk sick. So, so very sick. But we’ll have a taste anyway. We have some sick leave stored up. And that bullshit leave they gave us after they cut our pay the last time. Fuckers.

The remaining human member attending the meeting notes that only she has sick leave, as the cat does not have a job. The cat will also not be trying the cheese, as it is neither Dorito powder nor my tuna from back in the days that I could still have tuna.

8:43 Krk returns, triumphant, from heating the milk, and adding cal, salt, and rennet. The milk didn’t taste weird or smell funny. This is good news. Indeed. But we’ll see how we feel about the situation when it actually comes to eating the cheese. The hanging vs. hanging and pressing decision will be made when ladling the cheese later tonight. “If the curd looks nice and...tight...oh yes, it will be pressed.”

That sounds dirty, but we’ll just type it and not say anything, as it also sounds gross. In the context of dirty. Not in the context of cheese.

Goat Milk Cheese

Ah! Clabbered Summer Hill goat milk and Smith Bros. lowfat cultured buttermilk. Clabbered for a day. Krk heated it up to 86 degrees, and added salt, rennet, and cal. The curd (still in whey) was allowed to sit 30 min to set, cubed, then brought up to 110 over 30 min., and kept at 110 for 30 min. It was tasty after it was hung and pressed, cut into cubes, and salted again. We didn’t eat that one quiiiiite as quickly, as Kasia has been off the eating part of the cheese venture, beyond sampling nibbles and in-process QA.

Indeed. ISO something-thousand certified QA. The curd is just that good. Or, uniform. Whatever those fancy certifications do. Or would do to cheese.

Per last week’s plans, the club has completed all tasks except oiling the cheese press. Let’s put that one on this week’s To Do list, and pretend we didn’t miss it last time. Like Kasia does with her normal To Do list. “Boy howdy, am I productive.”

Today, the club purchased milk from our Jersey guy’s daughter (we presume), as well as their spreadable fresh cultured cheese and “jeddar”....which Kasia guesses is jack + cheddar, but had gouda consistency according to Krk. Kasia agrees. It was tasty. Kasia suspects this might have been the result of a botched jack process, not unlike her nice, mild, dry cheddar. But bigger. So moister. More moist. Like nut meat. Nutmeat? Nut-meat? No, that would be an adjectival form. As in, “The nut-meat moisture in this room makes it sultry.” Throw Momma From the Train was a great movie. Why did what’s-his-face get all crappy? Krk reminds Kasia that what’s-his-face is named Billy Crystal. To summarize the conjecture in a tone consistent with that one film where he does the cattle drive: “His funny well done dried up.”

Krk remembers the name of every movie apparently. Or at least ones Billy Crystal was in. Then he rubs in that he was in screenwriting class, and Kasia takes on a FANCY TONE as appropriate. Read that last sentence with increasingly FANCY tone. OK, Krk was not being schmancy, but maybe I want to take a screenwriting class. Or I could be like the guy in the Bowery in LA at 2 am with Screenwriting For Dummies open next to him at the bar. Or I could read one of the like 30 books on screenwriting not more than 3 feet from me right now. Or I could read something more interesting.

Fair enough. Indeed.

Hm.

Back to cheese. Krk thinks he’s going to hang this current cheese. It’s looking kindof gloopy.

Kasia will break into this week’s cheesemaking after payday on Tuesday. Yay!

Krk will make more of his now famed cream cheese with today’s purchase of jersey milk from Silver Springs, whole cream from Twin Brook, and lowfat cultured buttermilk from Sunshine Dairy Foods. From Portland. Krk says excitedly that we can call them. Kasia points out that we can call a lot of people. The phone system now connects to many places, and not just Murray Hill or wherever Mabel will deign to plug in the jack. We can also visit them.

Today Kasia bought thermophilic culture and mold to make a cow’s milk brie. This will be our first attempt at brie. The results may well be somewhere between shocking and hilarious. And awesome. Either way they will be awesome.

Krk bought cheese wax and butter muslin. This reminds Kasia that she also plans on disinfecting the cheese cave (read: cooler in the drafty closet) and finding tupperware that fits to make multiple cheeses without cross-contamination. This includes maybe a jack-ish gouda. Let’s take a cue from Silver Springs, and call it Jouda. Judah? It’s bound to offend someone.

Kasia proposes that when we standardize a bit more and have certain cheeses we make consistently, we give them moderately offensive names. Krk agrees. We will make it so.

Having typed that, Kasia also proposes that these minutes be read sounding like Patrick Stewart. Or Willem Dafoe.

Kasia does not want to explain to Krk why we can’t have this read by Steve Buscemi. At the very least, cost and travel might be a concern. Or getting him on the phone.

Though he is very indy friendly. That may apply to cheese blogs.

Judah.

Judah

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The name Judah can refer to:
All later individuals, groups and places of this name are directly or indirectly derived from this Judah.

[edit]Ethnic, political and geographic names and terms

  • The Tribe of Judah, the Hebrew tribe whose members regarded the above as their eponymous ancestor
  • The Kingdom of Judah, the Biblical kingdom ruled by the royal line of David
  • Yehud Medinata, the Babylonian and Persian province organised from the former kingdom of Judah
  • Judea, the former territory of the Kingdom of Judah after its demise (c. 586 BC), being successively a Babylonian, a Persian, a Ptolemaic and a Seleucid province, an independent kingdom under the Hasmoneans regarding itself as successor of the Biblical one, a Roman dependent kingdom and a Roman province
  • Iudaea Province, Roman province, with the Latin spelling
  • Jew, derived from Hebrew "Yehudi" יהודי (literally, "Judean"); the derivation is more clear in German "Jude" and in Slavic "Zhid"
  • Judean Mountains, modern Israeli name for the mountains around Jerusalem, politically divided between Israel and the Occupied West Bank
  • Judea and Samaria, official Israeli name for the West Bank

Other places

[edit]People

[edit]Given name

[edit]People called Judah


[edit]Persons that had Judah as their first or middle name


[edit]Surname

  • Henry M. Judah, American soldier
  • Theodore Judah, American engineer who dreamed of the first transcontinental railroad
  • Gerry Judah, Artist and Designer
  • Tim Judah, historian and journalist
  • Yoel Judah, American 3x world champion kickboxer and boxer & trainer
  • Zab Judah ("Super"), American world champion junior welterweight & world champion welterweight boxer

[edit]Organizations



Yup. A cheese that does all that. And a brie. Awesome.

Awesome. Like a hot dog?

Yes. Like a billion hot dogs.

Krk bought some Strauss Family Farms whole milk yogurt. It’s not “yah-furt”. There’s no “h” in it. Unlike “herb”. There’s a fucking “h” in that one. But Krk didn’t buy that today. Nor does it come out of a cow. Ew.

Krk’s plans for the yahfurt:

Yahfurt cheese. Salt it and hang it. Let gravity do its thing. Or thang. Definitely thang.

Plans for the week:

As above: Judah and brie. Yahfurt cheese.

Also: Queso fresco

FLAPJACKS. And make it big. Like FLAPJACKS
What was wrong with those young men? Sigh.

That’s evidently a longer list than there are Judahs. Note: phrase to use more frequently: “Why, there’s more of that than there are Judahs.” Also: “Like a hotel room in Oklahoma city.”

Also begin writing The Snows of Dubrovnik.

Krk wants to make it known that he loves that Met Market has quarts of Twin Brooks heavy cream. Not like those pussy little pint bottles. What the hell are those? Like you find everywhere else.

That’s good for a week. Plus a random impulse cheese.

Heaters don’t do anything unless they’re plugged in. Tell your friends.

Meeting adjourned 9:19. Indeed.

Meeting unadjourned to discuss the merits of butter as a form of cheese. Kasia asserts that fat is not a protein. This is a revelation to most of the world. Particularly here. Let’s not go to the park anymore, Smithers. There are too many fat children. But Krk did buy a cultured butter this week as well. It may be good. He hasn’t tried it.

Try it! That’s the joy of pseudo-live blogging.

Krk unwraps the butter like it’s a Wonka Bar. The butter is yellow, and smells like butter. Run home Charlie! Krk takes a small sample and tastes it. Nods pleasantly. It tastes like sweet cream butter. Total ripoff. Organic Valley’s pasture butter is better.

Goat butter.

Buffalo butter.

Cat butter.

Ew.

Cat butter is made from malk. It’s grade F. We like to use dog or better. Not cat or rat.

Unless that cat is a snow leopard. They’re hard to milk, as they tend to tear your throat out. Then the butter hardly seems worth it. Try it if you dont’ believe us.

Thank you. Goodnight.

Meeting re-adjourned 9:25 pm.

Monday, January 2, 2012

Meadowwood Cheesemaking Class

If you're interested in taking a small farm-based cheesemaking class on 12 Jan., Meadowwood Farm has its signup sheet out at their self-serve farm stand in Enumclaw. That's about a 40-min. drive from Seattle, and the cost is $75. Check it out!

Krk and I learned introductory cheesemaking at Cook's World ('round the back side of U Village). It doesn't look like they have one scheduled in Jan. or Feb., though.

Clabberation

Clabberation: (n.) The result of cooperatively deciding what to do with milk that is clabbering.


Clabberate: (v.) To cooperatively decide what to do with milk that is clabbering.


Clabberbate: (v.) Hey we're trying to keep this PG-13!

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Dairies, Supplies, and Information, pt. 1: MILK!



We've been doing this cheesemaking hobby for around a year now, and haven't kept much official track of where we get our milk, where it's made, what we use in the cheese kitchen, or how we know how to do any of the stuff we didn't [re]invent ourselves...so let's have a chat about some of our favorite dairies, kitchen items, and sites. This post is all about milk!

Talking Pasteurized Milk
If we're talking pasteurized milk, Krk and I will probably mention one of three brands: Twin Brook, Fresh Breeze, or Silver Springs. All three are up in Lynden, WA, and produce vat-pasteurized, non-homogenized milk. (For the uninitiated, that means the milk is pasteurized at the lowest temp/time combination to do the germ-killing deed, and the fat content isn't equally distributed across the volume of milk, so you'll often get a tasty sample of buttery cream under the cap.)

Which do we choose? If possible, we head out to the Ballard farmers' market to see "our Jersey guy" or his wife from Silver Springs creamery. (We use that name so much that I had to track down a photo of their bottles to find the real business name.) They get their milk from a small herd of Jersey cows, and produce yummy goat milk as well. The color and flavors of the milk change from time to time, largely reflecting cattle diet and the season, but the milk is rich and tastes a bit more like it recently came out of a cow. That's a good thing. Trust me.

Twin Brook milk is a bit more easily available at QFC, Met Market, and Madison Market, as is Fresh Breeze at Whole Foods. You'll notice them as the milk brands in the glass bottles with the steep deposit. Once you get in the bottle-return cycle, though, it's not a big deal. Other than location, the difference between the two is the cows -- Twin Brook is all Jersey, while Fresh Breeze is mostly Holstein -- and the resulting fat-content of the milk. Both make a tasty cheese...they just make slightly different cheeses, just as fat content contributes to how different sheep and goat milk cheeses set up and taste.

Raw Information (or other snappy use of "raw" in a heading)
Ours is a home of bacteria, enzymes, and fungi doing work for us, so it should come as no surprise that we're fans of raw milk. We're not the sort opposed to modern medicine, mechanization, sanitation, or other standards and regulations for public health...just not fans of mandated pasteurization for everyone.

OOH! There's a fun topic for a post soon: Public Health, Sanitation, and Regulation. Public health data and regulation is part of my work and my data-nerd joy. As is appropriate and informed regulation. Until then, just remember it's an option, and if you're not comfortable working with it or consuming it, that's a respectable choice.

Raw milk can be expensive -- $7-9 per half gallon. It can take some extra travel. It can't be sold to you in Washington State in any processed form (cheese, yogurt, etc.) unless it's aged at least 60 days. That only works for some types of cheese.

Raw milk also just BEGS to be processed! Working with raw milk in a cheese kitchen (or raw cream in butter-making) is a breeze, because the bacteria and enzymes want to do the work for you. The mixture in the milk doesn't want to spoil, so much as it wants to sour and condense its fats. Its natural inclination is to curdle like any milk will with temperature and acidity (or in a young animal's stomach) into digestible solids and liquid whey, rather than go rancid and poisonous right away. It also just tastes like it's straight from the cow, but VIBRANTLY so. It tastes rich and green (with a hint of fresh grass in the summer) like nothing else.

When we're working with raw milk, we tend to use what's out there: Sea Breeze Jersey, Milking Shorthorns, Brown Swiss, Swedish Red, Montbeliarde, and Holstein milk from Vashon, Dungeness Valley Jersey milk from Sequim, and Pride & Joy Jersey, Holstein, Ayrshire, Swedish Red, and Normandy milk from Granger. We pick them up at Madison Market, unless we want to take a field trip to the farmers' market or Vashon for Sea Breeze. We've also been to the tiny, family-run raw-milk cowshare at Meadowwood Farm in Enumclaw, where Krk got his first lick from a calf. This calf.

She was nice to share her mum's milk with us.
Evolution of a cheese weight.

Kasia's parents got me a cheese press for Xmas. I was so excited by this that I made a batch of cheese within hours of receiving it. It came with an open and an enclosed mold. For the last year, we've struggled with pressing our cheese, doing all sorts of crazy things to get that excess whey out of our curd.

My good friend Mario is a decorative metal worker, specializing in finishing. I texted him the mold lid below and asked him if he could make me a 3" diameter by approx. 3.5"height weight.

This is the 3" diameter by 3.5" height chunk of steel he texted back! Perfect!


Later the same night, I met up with Mario for some drinks. He had this with him. The very same chunk of steel all prettified and stamped with the name of my video editing business! I suspected he might get this crazy thing done that day, so I brought him samples of two different raw milk queso frescos and two different cream cheeses I had made in the last week. Very grateful!



So there it is. This bugger is going to squeeze out a serious amount of whey!


12/31/11 - Cheese project
Attending: Kasia Patora and Krk Nordenstrom... and Lucy.

¾ Gal. Trader Joe’s organic pasteurized milk
1 Qt. lowfat cultured buttermilk

Put in ceramic bowl and stirred at about 2 pm. 12/31/11
As of 4pm 1/1/12, it has done very little. A little foamy at the top, but not much else.

Kasia, “What did you expect? It’s cold in here.”
Krk, “I was optimistic.”
Kasia, “Well, maybe if you snuggled it.”

We both laughed a little. Just a little, though. There was brief discussion of Krk’s lack of the use of a comma in the last sentence and relief when it was finally input.

Kasia stirred thoroughly again at roughly 4pm on 1/1/12.

Clabbering:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clabber_(food)
Clabber is a food produced by allowing unpasteurized milk to turn sour at a specific humidity and temperature. Over time, the milk thickens or curdles into a yogurt-like substance with a strong, sour flavor. In rural areas of the Southern United States, it was commonly eaten for breakfast with brown sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon, or molasses added. Some people also eat it with fruit or black pepper and cream.
Clabber was brought to the South by the Ulster Scots who settled in the Appalachian mountains. In fact, clabber is still sometimes referred to as bonny clabber (originally "bainne clábair", from Gaelic bainne — milk , and clábair — sour milk).[1] Clabber passed into Scots and Hiberno-English dialects meaning wet, gooey mud, though it is commonly used now in the noun form to refer to the food or in the verb form "to curdle". A German version is called Quark. In France, a similar food made from cream is known as crème fraîche.
Clabber was sometimes served with a specialized spoon. This is a serving utensil formed with the handle made at a 90 degree angle from the spoon bowl, to accommodate the manner in which clabber had to be ladled out of the container in which it formed.
With the rise of pasteurization the making of clabber virtually stopped, except on farms that had easy access to unprocessed cow's milk. A somewhat similar food can be made from pasteurized milk by adding a couple of tablespoons of commercial buttermilk or sour milk to a glass of milk.”

Discussion centers on whether clabber is simply a noun or a verb as well as a noun.
http://www.thefreedictionary.com/clabbered

clab·ber  (kl
n. Chiefly Southern, Midland, & Western U.S.
Sour, curdled milk. Also called regionally thick milk.
tr. & intr.v. clab·bered, clab·ber·ing, clab·bers
To curdle.


[Short for bonnyclabber.]


Noun1.clabber - raw milk that has soured and thickened
dairy product - milk and butter and cheese
Verb1.clabber - turn into curds; "curdled milk"
curdle, clot
change state, turn - undergo a transformation or a change of position or action; "We turned from Socialism to Capitalism"; "The people turned against the President when he stole the election"


It is both a noun and a verb and we wonder if it might also be an adjective, but move on to the longer form of clabber, bonnyclabber.

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/bonnyclabber
bon·ny·clab·ber  (b
n. New England & Central Atlantic U.S.
Thick, soured milk eaten with cream and sugar, honey, or molasses.


1 gal. pasteurized skim milk and a half cup of cultured buttermilk should clabber in 12-14 hours at 70-75º F. The apartment is currently 66º F. A decision has been made to move the milk closer to the heater to make the cultured buttermilk a little more active.

Cultured buttermilk

Commercially available cultured buttermilk is milk that has been pasteurized and homogenized (if 1% or 2% fat), and then inoculated with a culture of lactic acid bacteria to simulate the naturally occurring bacteria in the old-fashioned product. Some dairies add colored flecks of butter to cultured buttermilk to simulate residual flecks of butter that can be left over from the churning process of traditional buttermilk.[2]
Condensed buttermilk and Dried buttermilk have increased in importance in the food industry.[4] Buttermilk solids are used in ice cream manufacture.[5] Adding specific strains of bacteria to pasteurized milk allows more consistent production.
In the early 1900s, cultured buttermilk was labeled artificial buttermilk, to differentiate it from traditional buttermilk, which was known as natural or ordinary buttermilk.[6

4:24pm A motion was made to try this process with raw milk. Yes, buy expensive raw milk and pour it in a bowl covered with a splatter guard and then place it on the floor next to the portable heater. Motion was approved by no real means of parliamentary procedure currently accepted as valid.

4:26pm It is proposed that the smaller cooler (with a turtle silhouette on it) become the dwelling’s official cheese cave in order to produce an aged cheese. Motion is approved. Previous attempt at making a jack cheese resulted in a nice, mild, dry cheddar. It is hoped that the acquisition of the new cheese press and steel weight will improve the likelihood of a jack being produced instead of a nice, mild cheddar. Though the cheesemakers will be pleased with another nice, mild, dry cheddar.

4:32pm It is decided that this document will be the official repository of the weekly cheese meetings.

4:34pm Project: create a compartmentalized cheese cave without spending $300 on a premade, purple-cow themed one.

4:35pm Discussion of needed gear and supplies.
  • Cultures - mesophilic and thermophilic
  • cheese wax
  • cultured yogurt
  • wider cheesecloth/larger hop sacks

4:37pm Discussion of what to do with current clabbering milk. Twarog/Twarożek. Polish (possibly Ukranian) words for “basic white farmers cheese for use in blintzes like the one John wants” is decided. It is proposed that the milk be given some more time to clabber and if it doesn’t sufficiently curdle, it will be heated to approx. 86º F to aid in curdling.

“We want to curdle the clabber”

4:43pm Consulting The Joy of Cooking to discover further uses for milk that has undergone clabbering or has been clabbered. Clabber. The prospect of cottage cheese is proposed as well as bakers’ or hoop cheese.

4:46pm Kasia makes disparaging remarks about skim milk. Krk defends it’s existence on the basis that they have to do something with it after the cream has been taken out. Kasia suggests it be used for watering plants or fed to animals. Indeed.

4:49pm It is decided that cheese gifts must be made for Cristina and Antje. Indeed.

Action items for the week of 1/1/12
  • Krk will go get raw milk, cultured yogurt and more buttermilk. Preferably at Madison Market and not somewhere crappy like Safeway or somewhere fishy smelling like Albertsons. (It is decided that Albertsons is not worth the effort of looking up whether or not Albertsons has an apostrophe in the name)
  • Clabber raw milk
  • Continue attempting to clabber Trader Joe’s pasteurized milk
  • Said clabbered milk will become a gift for Cristina
  • Say clabber a lot, clabber. Indeed.
  • Make Trader Joe’s milk into Twarog... once (or if) it clabbers, or becomes clabber as the case may or may not be.
  • Oil the cheese press.
  • Find the mineral oil to oil the cheese press. (left in for comedic purpobsenbshghhn)BHY)


Meeting adjourned 4:56pm

4:56pm. Meeting briefly reconvened so Kasia can ask a question... a two part question. Will the minutes of the previous week’s meeting be read aloud at the beginning of the next meeting and can they be read aloud by an actor friend in a gran, dramatic and Cleeseian fashion?

Yes.

Meeting adjourned again at 4:58pm. Good night or something.